Front End Alignment Porsche 1982 911sc
If you are going to do a Front End Alignment on a Porsche like this one you will have to be very careful that you do not strip the threads with those allen bolts that hold the shock to the Strut tower. They can be under some pressure when you put that bolt back in and if you don’t have those holes lined up just right it will be so easy to strip them. It is not a good idea to use a cheap Tap…Only use one made in the US if you can help it. With those cheap taps they will actually distort on the first cutting edge and mess up even a perfectly good thread with them. You should really get a Re Threader Tap to do this. You have more surface to grab with regular socket and ratchet …just make sure you get it to go in straight when you turn it. You should actually use a tap cutting oil when doing this, then turn it in maybe a quarter of a turn and turn it back out …then keep doing that over working your way down into the threaded hole. In theory these units should be more gentle than a regular tap so they can get started much eaisly. Here is a photo of the hole that I had the problem with. looks like how could you mess that up right..well a steel plate goes over that hole…then a reinforcement bracket gets screwed down on that too..so now you have 2 other pieces of steel to go through also.
Now for a look at those ReThreader Taps, This is what they look like:
Purchased them from E-bay and should recieve them agout the 17 of Nov.
This is a photo of a new students work after 2 weeks of watching one video. He only did the bottom of the seat because it was worn out and that was what the customer wanted. Not bad for somebody with 2 weeks experience.
Light bulbs in your car, and how to fix them.
These are the tools you will need to do this job
You will need a Voltage multi meter. You will get what you pay for. Try not to get one too cheap. I got this one from sears because it was on sale at the time and it is suppose to be an automotive one that can work on Sensors too. You will also need some emery paper and maybe a small wire brush with maybe some brass wires on it to remove corrosion. Also some Jewerly screw drivers. A good Phillips screw driver too, a dremel tool with a round wire brush in it that just fits in a round socket for the bulb. You can use some of the small screwdrivers to scrape the channels in the side of the light socket to get out the corrosion. You will need to blow out the corrosion out of that socket. You can use an air gun nozzle attached to a small compressor or you can go and purchase a can of air that is used to blow out electronic equipment like keyboards and computers too.
When you have a tail light issue you must first remove the tail light using usually phillips secrew driver. Then you can remove the bulb to see what is going on. On most bulbs you will have to turn them 1/2 turn counter clockwise to get them out. Then pull them.
You can see that this bulb is coverd with corrosion. This car was purchased not too far from the ocean too. All that salt gets in the air and will corrode anything. I used a brass bristle brush to get most of the powder off of the bulb. Then I had to get some Emery paper, for metal and 80 grit to remove the rest.
You can see the bulb now that it was completely cleaned. The next step is to look at the philament in the bulb to make sure that it is solid and not broken. Have a backup bulb standing by anyway.
Next is to check for power. Turn you lights on and get your voltage meter. Put the red lead to the prong on the bottom of the socket and use the other lead , usually black to one of the mounting screws to the body …should be a good ground. See if you get approx 12 volts…If you do then you are good if not then you have to check your ground to see why you have no power. Or go back from the wire on the bulb and trace it to find out why there is no power.
You must remove all the corossion from the socket now too. Best way is with a Dremel tool with a small brush on it. YOu will have to scrape the channels too going down the sides of the socket to get the corrossion out of the socket. Then last but not least is to blow out all the dust. Since I have an air compressor it was easy.
Trouble with the Battery Ground Cable on a Porsche 911SC
If you have one of these Older 911’s and you are seeing half your car interior lights are dim or even all of them are dim then it is a good chance that you have a poor ground.
The First place you should look at is your battery ground. To do this you will have to take your battery out of the car.
Because your ground strap gets mounted behind the battery.
If you have one of these battery cables that looks like a twisted pig tail and has corrosion around both of the connectors then you should really chuck it.
ANTIQUE AUTOMOBILE WIRING
Whenever working on an Antique Auto sometimes it is good to replace all the wiring. Those really old cars usually have some kind of cloth covered wiring that is really bad and it is just a matter of time before it shorts out completely. Even On Porsches from the 80’s the wiring is just terrible. It might look good but the plastic/rubber cover on those cars is a joke. If you try to solder those wires the covering on them will melt about 3 to 4 inches back from where you are soldering. So just imagine what would happen if you had a short…forget about it. They do make old looking wire now that is top notch because it is made of new materials.
Sometimes you can hollow out some old part and put the new parts into it and nobody will ever know. Judges normally do not open anything or remove anything. So what they don’t see will not hurt them.
WIRING PROBLEMS FOR OLDER CARS
On some older cars like Porsche 911 or Jags, you can run into a lot of problems with the wiring. The problem with these cars is that you have one fused line tying into another fused line and on and on. So wires can short easily and the short will be very difficult to find. You would think that there would be all separate lines for each fused
line right? Not so, why they designer a wiring mess like this I have no idea.
Sometimes it is probably better to run your own separate line to that part. Simple is always better.
That is what I might do to this Porsche. I can’t get the power windows to work. Sometimes I have power to them and sometimes I don’t…I will try 3 different relays next and If I have the same problem I know will know for sure that there is a problem with them or not. I think I tried this before but I will try it one more time just to be sure. What fooled me on this Porsche is that there are 2 ACC stops on the key before it starts and only in the second ACC position will the windows work at all. I did not know this before.
Here is the thing with the Porsche 911sc….it was a racing car that was turned into a consumer car by adding on some junk like power windows and a radio and cigarette lighter. This stuff is really out of place in this car. Ok the radio I will keep. But if there is any way I can put in a crank window handle on this car I will do it. Short of that I will run my own circuit to the power windows.
If somebody was going to fix the wiring to make it work like it was when it was new would cost a fortune. Sorry I am not going down that road. Simple is always better. Always hatted anything with power Accessories.
WORKING WITH PORSCHE WINDOW MOTORS
Did you know that when testing a Porsche 911SC window motor you have to put the postive on one terminal and the neg on the other or it will not work. You cant ground these out like a GM window motor. There is no ground on the Porsche motor.
Now once you put the motor in the regulator arm in the door you will not be able to move it so you can get the screws in. The only you can move the arm is with the motor. For this reason you will have to attach 2 leads to the motor and you can operate the motor by just hooking it up to a small battery charger. To reverse the direction of the motor just reverse the leads and it will go the other way.
You will need to adjust the position of the arm so you can get the mounting screws in to hold the arm in place.
Hey…nobody said it would be easy.
Now once you get the arm in with the motor in it I would not hook it up to the button wires until you test the wiring first. For that I suggest you get a test light and put it between those wires. When you push the button on the door you should see the light go on. If the light is on all the time something is really screwed up. You either have a bad relay or you have a short.
It is always good to put alligator clips on the ends of your test leads attached to the power window motor. This way you will be able to hook up your battery charger to these clips very easily.
Still trying to trace down where that short could be or where the current stops. I remember talking to a Porsche Mechanic at Martini Racing, here in Stroudsburg, PA He told me to check out the connector that was behind the front fender. He told me to just tap it with a screwdriver by hitting it with a hammer to make connection.
I tried that and nothing happened. this wire connector is actually just about 4 inches behind where the gas fill pipe is. You have to open the drivers door and look into the back of the front fender in order to see it. If you want to remove it …good luck…you will need a pliers about 15 inches long….which I sent away for.
Here you can see this baby in use. It is the only way to lift up this wire socket… When I removed the socket I looked at it and the prongs looked fine.. but when I looked in the female socket I thought I could see some corrosion in there so I got a can of contact cleaner and sprayed it into the connector.
This is the can of cleaner I used. Then putting that connector back in was no simple task either.
Here you can see how I had to tap the connector in. After I tapped the connector in the window motor started to work….Don’t forget though you must have the Ignition in the second ACC spot…the spot where the fuel pump is working on a 911SC…or else your windows will not work Thought I was done…but not quite…having the same problem with the passengers door…But I have power at the switch so that is half the problem fixed right there… It really looks like the motor is shot there. Good thing I have those test leads I made…I will remove the wires on the motor and put my wires on it and hook it up to my battery charger that is 10 Amp….and if the motor works I know that it is the switch…But I did change the switch Button and it still did nothing. But I still want to test that motor without removing it from the door, because it is such a pain to get that thing out. I could always hook up that other test light to the motor connectors and if the light goes on then I know the switch is good if I am pressing it… So there you have it . There are many different ways to skin this cat..
WORKING WITH PORSCHE DOOR CABLE
Getting back to the Door cable in the Porsche 911, here is the scoop. The Factory will no longer sell the original cable that would just cost $8.25 probably because it was a piece of junk. The wire in the cable would stretch out and you could no longer open the door. So now the Factory or Warehouse will only sell the replacement rod and lever for $125 plus shipping.
Forget about that I will make my own. I will make it adjustable with a turnbuckle which is aluminun and the eyes in it are steel. To weld anything like this…welding to a 3/16 spring steel rod you will need a 3rd hand.
When you are welding a 3/16 rod to a threaded rod you will need some good power to your MIG…I had to put mine on the 3rd heat range to get a good weld. Here you see me filing it down after I put it on a grinding stone.
Here you can see the finished piece with the turnbuckle on it. You can see that I cut part of the eye out in the turnbuckle to make a hook so it would fit in the door. I then had to get a file and file down the raw edge to round it off so it would slip into that plastic bushing and lock in place.
In this photo you can see the rod installed in the door latch and I is working fine and is adjustable too.
Normally this corner of the fender was one solid piece of metal because it was Stamped
out with a 60 Ton press and made short order of the whole fender. But when a piece of fender had to be replaced you have to weld back on to the original fender and make it look like the original piece. This is the process you will have to go through.
So I left extra sheet metal on this piece because I knew I had to bend it over the reinforcement piece under it and trim it to size.
I used a body hammer to fold the corner over then I marked it from the back of the piece then marked the front. I had to cut a piece off of the piece I made using a electric body saw from Harbor Freight company. Then I cut the top piece with a good pair of aircraft cutting snips.
On a regular Mig Welder for sheet metal sometimes you have 4 heat ranges to work with. I have them A-D with D being the highest. You also have speed of the wire too. The hotter you make the MIG…the faster you have to feed the wire. For the lowest bead height you must go with the hottest setting. And kick your wire feed speed. Then you will get a low bead because it will melt right into the metal you are welding …But you will have to have your finger on the trigger for less than a second. This way you can advoid doing a lot of grinding. But here is the catch. You can’t use this temp if you are working on paper thin metal, you will burn a hole right through the metal. You will have no choice to use maybe a setting in the B range so you get some meat on the metal you are working with.. Hope you have that 4 inch grinding wheel around to grind down all those little mountians you will be making. I used self etching primer on it too so as to keep rust from forming..I probably will have to sand some of this off so I can put on a layer of waterproof body putty on the edge to kind of smooth it out before painting so it looks just like new. You can also some Epoxy primer…